ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

Designed in collaboration with local artist, Rose "Maz" Moore of the creative duo "Maz and Attero" (etsy.com/shop/mazandattero or mazandattero.xyz) and named by the community, Galactic Empire Metallic Purple HTPLA  has presence and prestige!

Purple is the color of royalty after all.

So park your star destroyer and roll out the red carpet because this rich, dark purple is complimented with some big, silver fleck for just the right metallic pop!!!

 

 

A purple to rule the galaxy from the Kings of Filament!

Print with the ease of standard PLA with standard hardware and temperatures, but make fun, mesmerizing prints that stand out.  Celebrate good times by printing toys, treasures, and keepsakes.  If you want to make a print more fun, just add some metallic pop!  Our metallic finish contains no actual metal and has little risk of clogging or wearing your nozzle, and it won't make a glitter mess, but beware the printing is sure to be addictive!  Metallic particles are relatively small but have some orientation effects, giving top/bottom surfaces more shine than sidewall, so have some fun playing with orientation to see how the result changes!  We recommend 0.2 mm layers for the best result.
Like our other HTPLAs, Metallic HTPLA can be "Heat Treated"  to increase crystallinity for "Higher Temperature" resistance compared to amorphous PLA, ABS, and co-polyesters like PETG!  Glitter Flake HTPLA prints translucence, but turns opaque when heat treated (or crystallized).  With a more crystalline structure, heat treated HTPLA parts can hold form to near melting, though temperatures where the material is practically useful vary greatly depending on geometry and load conditions!
For this improved performance, your prints should be baked in an oven until you see a change from translucent to opaque with reduced gloss.  This visual change indicating the improved performance! We've  seen the change take place in 5-10 minutes on thin walled parts but can take an hour or more.  We've had good luck in a quality, at home convection oven at 110C (225F).  Parts will get very "floppy" before becoming more firm, so please leave supports on your parts or support them and bake them on a flat, non-radiating surface (like glass, ceramic, or composite).
  • Available in 1.75 & 2.85 (3) mm diameter on a 500g diameter recyclable cardboard spool
  • Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more!

No abrasive fillers so expect normal wear with standard nozzles.

In our experience, good results were achieved using standard PLA parameters ranging from 195-225C nozzle with standard build surface preparation (blue tape, glue stick, or BuildTak). No heated bed required but up to 60C is okay.  Beware, if the bed temperature is too high, your part base could actually heat treat while printing, increasing warping and decreasing adhesion.  Some shrinkage will occur in the heat treating process, so dimension critical parts may need to be scaled appropriately (as much as 2.5% in our experience).

Print

HTPLA prints well at 205-225 C, however it's important to match temp to your hardware & volume flow rate. With a typical hotend, you should be able to print at 205 C without jamming at a low flow rate. In machines with hardware that tends towards jamming, consider this video with Joel Telling.

Lower volume flows require lower temps, while higher volume flows require higher temps. In the previously-mentioned video, one way to overcome jamming is to set your temp to a higher-than-typical 240 C. This should then be matched with a high flow rate for a quality printing result.

For direct drives with a short distance between drive gears & nozzle, volume flows can approach 7-8 cubic mm/s or more if printing hot to overcome jamming. For bowden tubes where the distance between drive gear & nozzle are great or less powerful hotends, as little as 2 and as much as 4 cubic mm/s may be the limit. Beware of unintended speed changes from faster infills & slowing down for outlines or short layers. Consider our Ultimaker-specific blog for more on this topic.

A constant speed throughout the part is ideal from an extrusion perspective. Knowing your extrusion width, layer thickness & speed you can calculate your volume flow rate with the calculator like found in the previously-mentioned Ultimaker blog. Alternatively, if you know your volume flow rate limit, extrusion width & layer thickness, you can calculate your speed limit.

Heat Treat

PLA & HTPLA are amorphous in structure as printed (no heat treating) & though both are adequate performers in an office environment, they have poor temperature stability, loosing significant stiffness at temps nearing 60 C. Different than standard PLA, HTPLA is designed to survive heat treating for higher temp stability in a no/minimal load condition to near onset of melting (155 C). That's an astonishing improvement in thermal stability compared to standard PLA after a quick bake in the oven after printing.

In as little as 5-10 minutes for small, thin parts, HTPLA quickly crystallizes in an oven at 95-115 C (200-240 F) to become more stiff & hold form above glass transition (60 C). Depending on part geometry, setup & technique, parts can deform and shrink. Best results are with flat and/or supported parts with 100% infill. In this instance we experienced x/y shrinkage of about 2% & growth of about 1% in z.

Be sure to avoid hot spots (non-radiating surfaces & no glowing coils) in the oven used for baking & experiment before baking a prized part. Un-printed filament works great for experimentation & translucent makes the transformation most visible! Heat treating is an art, but the resulting improved thermal performance, if needed, is well-worth exploring. You'll be shocked by the improved thermal stability of your HTPLA parts!!!

 

High Temperature PLA ( HTPLA )

Looking for increased heat resistance without the need to switch to ABS? Protopasta High Temperature PLA offers heat deflection of up to 88° C (190.4° F) compared to standard PLA of 45-54° C (113-135° F). This makes it a great choice for moving parts (gears, RepRap pieces, etc) or prints that would face moderately high temperatures. Our High Temperature PLA is white, but can be painted after annealing.

What is it made out of?
Protopasta High Temperature PLA is made from a mineral filled, impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance, so post-print annealing is essential to activate the heat deflection qualities of this material.How do I anneal my print?
You can anneal your finished prints several ways, the two easiest ways are by using hot (but not boiling) water or by placing it in a low temperature oven (newer oven models only). Follow these steps:
  • Water Method: Find a pot large enough to hold your print and fill it halfway with water. On medium heat, heat the water until it reaches 95-115 C (200-240 F) (a cooking thermometer works great for this), turn the heat to low and submerge the print in the warm water bath for 6-10 minutes. Placing a lid on your pot will help the water maintain temperature.
  • Oven Method: Many newer ovens often have low temperature settings (sometimes called "keep warm" or "bread proof"). Set your oven to 95-115 C (200-240 F), place your finished print on a tray, and set it in the oven for 6-10 minutes.
  • SUPPORT YOUR PRINT! Because the annealing process will soften the plastic somewhat, it's best to support your print during this process.
What temperature should I print it at?
Because 3D printers vary so much from model to model, and because many RepRap printers combine parts from several manufactures, we can't provide the optimum temperature for your machine. Generally, our customers find it prints just like standard PLA on their machines (at around 210° C), though others find success running it a bit hotter (around 220° C).Do I need a heated bed? No, High Temp PLA does not require a heated bed or an enclosure.

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and InstagramNeed more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

500g- Rolo
HTPLA Galactic Empire Metallic Purple HTPLA ( Community Inspired )
- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm)
- Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil
- Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

It seemed untouchable, always turning pink, but we finally have a formulation good enough to share! 

Think hot rods and ruby slippers, this red is going to knock your socks off!!!!  Words can't describe... 

 

 

CANDY APPLE RED METALLIC PLA!!! Need I say more?!?!

Created from our highest quality, translucent HTPLA v2, this stuff is red and sparkly!

Candy Apple Red Metallic PLA prints with the ease of standard PLA with standard hardware and temperatures, but make fun, mesmerizing prints that stand out. Celebrate good times by 3d printing metallic red PLA ornaments, toys, and treasures. If you want to make a print more fun, just add glitter. Glitter Flake Red PLA has little risk of clogging or wearing your nozzle, and it won't make a glittery mess, but beware, printing with metallic glitter PLA is sure to be addictive! Glitter particles are relatively small but have some orientation effects, giving top/bottom surfaces more shine than sidewall, so have some fun playing with orientation to see how the result changes!

HEAT TREATING

Like our other HTPLAs, Glitter Flake Metallic Red PLA filament can be "Heat Treated" to increase crystallinity for "Higher Temperature" resistance compared to amorphous PLA, ABS, and co-polyesters like PETG! Glitter Flake HTPLA prints translucent, but turns opaque when heat treated (or crystallized). With a more crystalline structure, heat treated HTPLA parts can hold form to near melting, though temperatures where the material is practically useful vary greatly depending on geometry and load conditions!

For this improved performance, your prints should be baked in an oven until you see a change from translucent pink to opaque pink with reduced gloss. This visual change indicates the improved performance! We've seen the change take place in 5-10 minutes on thin walled parts but can take an hour or more. We've had good luck in a quality, at home convection oven at 110C (225F). Parts will get very "floppy" before becoming more firm, so please leave supports on your parts or support them and bake them on a flat, non-radiating surface (like glass, ceramic, or composite).

PRINTING

In our experience, good results were achieved using standard PLA parameters ranging from 195-225C nozzle with standard build surface preparation (blue tape, glue stick, or BuildTak). No heated bed required but up to 60C is okay. Beware, if the bed temperature is too high, your part base could actually heat treat while printing, increasing warping and decreasing adhesion. Some shrinkage will occur in the heat treating process, so dimension critical parts may need to be scaled appropriately (as much as 2.5% in our experience).

  • No abrasive fillers so expect normal wear with standard nozzles.
  • Available in 1.75 & 2.85 (3) mm diameter on a 500g diameter recyclable cardboard spool
  • Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more!

 

High Temperature PLA ( HTPLA )

Looking for increased heat resistance without the need to switch to ABS? Protopasta High Temperature PLA offers heat deflection of up to 88° C (190.4° F) compared to standard PLA of 45-54° C (113-135° F). This makes it a great choice for moving parts (gears, RepRap pieces, etc) or prints that would face moderately high temperatures. Our High Temperature PLA is white, but can be painted after annealing.

What is it made out of?
Protopasta High Temperature PLA is made from a mineral filled, impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance, so post-print annealing is essential to activate the heat deflection qualities of this material.How do I anneal my print?
You can anneal your finished prints several ways, the two easiest ways are by using hot (but not boiling) water or by placing it in a low temperature oven (newer oven models only). Follow these steps:
  • Water Method: Find a pot large enough to hold your print and fill it halfway with water. On medium heat, heat the water until it reaches 95-115 C (200-240 F) (a cooking thermometer works great for this), turn the heat to low and submerge the print in the warm water bath for 6-10 minutes. Placing a lid on your pot will help the water maintain temperature.
  • Oven Method: Many newer ovens often have low temperature settings (sometimes called "keep warm" or "bread proof"). Set your oven to 95-115 C (200-240 F), place your finished print on a tray, and set it in the oven for 6-10 minutes.
  • SUPPORT YOUR PRINT! Because the annealing process will soften the plastic somewhat, it's best to support your print during this process.
What temperature should I print it at?
Because 3D printers vary so much from model to model, and because many RepRap printers combine parts from several manufactures, we can't provide the optimum temperature for your machine. Generally, our customers find it prints just like standard PLA on their machines (at around 210° C), though others find success running it a bit hotter (around 220° C).Do I need a heated bed? No, High Temp PLA does not require a heated bed or an enclosure.

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and InstagramNeed more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

500g- Rolo
HTPLA Candy Apple Metallic Red HTPLA ( Community Inspired )
- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm)
- Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil
- Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

Fellow 3D Printing Nerds, we are fans of Joel Telling just like you!

We'd all love to capture a bit of his energy, right?

Rather than bottle it, seems more appropriate in filament form, don't you agree?

We left out the caffeine for safety sake, but the metallic finish is indeed energetic, and it's Joel's favorite color, blue!

Yes, Highfive Blue HTPLA  is awesome.

Is it really awesome?

It's awesome. Awesome

 

Fleck 'n fun with Joel Telling!

  • Our 1st metallic finish filament & 2nd sparkly release after Stardust
  • In collaboration with content creator 3D Printing Nerd, Joel Telling
  • Joel's favorite color, blue, with medium silver fleck in HTPLA
  • Medium fleck brings balance of layer-hiding texture & detail
  • Premium HTPLA for world-class quality, finish & performance

Specs

Semi crystalline, heat treatable PLA for high temp use

Density: 1.24 g/cc
Length: 346 m/kg (1.75) 130 m/kg (2.85)
Typical Printing Temp: 205-225 C
Glass Transition (Tg)*: 60 C
Peak Crystallization (Tc)**: 95-115 C
Onset to Melt (Tm)***: 155 C
Typical change when heat treated: -2% x/y +1% z

Link to Safety Data Page

*max use with no heat treat & max platform temp
**heat treating @ temp 10+ min depending on size/mass
***max use when heat treated (annealed or crystallized)

Print

HTPLA prints well at 205-225 C, however it's important to match temp to your hardware & volume flow rate. With a typical hotend, you should be able to print at 205 C without jamming at a low flow rate. In machines with hardware that tends towards jamming, consider this video with Joel Telling.

Lower volume flows require lower temps, while higher volume flows require higher temps. In the previously-mentioned video, one way to overcome jamming is to set your temp to a higher-than-typical 240 C. This should then be matched with a high flow rate for a quality printing result.

For direct drives with a short distance between drive gears & nozzle, volume flows can approach 7-8 cubic mm/s or more if printing hot to overcome jamming. For bowden tubes where the distance between drive gear & nozzle are great or less powerful hotends, as little as 2 and as much as 4 cubic mm/s may be the limit. Beware of unintended speed changes from faster infills & slowing down for outlines or short layers. Consider our Ultimaker-specific blog for more on this topic.

A constant speed throughout the part is ideal from an extrusion perspective. Knowing your extrusion width, layer thickness & speed you can calculate your volume flow rate with the calculator like found in the previously-mentioned Ultimaker blog. Alternatively, if you know your volume flow rate limit, extrusion width & layer thickness, you can calculate your speed limit.

Heat Treat

PLA & HTPLA are amorphous in structure as printed (no heat treating) & though both are adequate performers in an office environment, they have poor temperature stability, loosing significant stiffness at temps nearing 60 C. Different than standard PLA, HTPLA is designed to survive heat treating for higher temp stability in a no/minimal load condition to near onset of melting (155 C). That's an astonishing improvement in thermal stability compared to standard PLA after a quick bake in the oven after printing.

In as little as 5-10 minutes for small, thin parts, HTPLA quickly crystallizes in an oven at 95-115 C (200-240 F) to become more stiff & hold form above glass transition (60 C). Depending on part geometry, setup & technique, parts can deform and shrink. Best results are with flat and/or supported parts with 100% infill. In this instance we experienced x/y shrinkage of about 2% & growth of about 1% in z.

Be sure to avoid hot spots (non-radiating surfaces & no glowing coils) in the oven used for baking & experiment before baking a prized part. Un-printed filament works great for experimentation & translucent makes the transformation most visible! Heat treating is an art, but the resulting improved thermal performance, if needed, is well-worth exploring. You'll be shocked by the improved thermal stability of your HTPLA parts!!!

 

High Temperature PLA ( HTPLA )

Looking for increased heat resistance without the need to switch to ABS? Protopasta High Temperature PLA offers heat deflection of up to 88° C (190.4° F) compared to standard PLA of 45-54° C (113-135° F). This makes it a great choice for moving parts (gears, RepRap pieces, etc) or prints that would face moderately high temperatures. Our High Temperature PLA is white, but can be painted after annealing.

What is it made out of?
Protopasta High Temperature PLA is made from a mineral filled, impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance, so post-print annealing is essential to activate the heat deflection qualities of this material.How do I anneal my print?
You can anneal your finished prints several ways, the two easiest ways are by using hot (but not boiling) water or by placing it in a low temperature oven (newer oven models only). Follow these steps:
  • Water Method: Find a pot large enough to hold your print and fill it halfway with water. On medium heat, heat the water until it reaches 95-115 C (200-240 F) (a cooking thermometer works great for this), turn the heat to low and submerge the print in the warm water bath for 6-10 minutes. Placing a lid on your pot will help the water maintain temperature.
  • Oven Method: Many newer ovens often have low temperature settings (sometimes called "keep warm" or "bread proof"). Set your oven to 95-115 C (200-240 F), place your finished print on a tray, and set it in the oven for 6-10 minutes.
  • SUPPORT YOUR PRINT! Because the annealing process will soften the plastic somewhat, it's best to support your print during this process.
What temperature should I print it at?
Because 3D printers vary so much from model to model, and because many RepRap printers combine parts from several manufactures, we can't provide the optimum temperature for your machine. Generally, our customers find it prints just like standard PLA on their machines (at around 210° C), though others find success running it a bit hotter (around 220° C).Do I need a heated bed? No, High Temp PLA does not require a heated bed or an enclosure.

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and InstagramNeed more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

500g- Rolo
HTPLA Joel's Highfive Blue HTPLA ( Community Inspired )
- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm)
- Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil
- Facilidade de Impressão

ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

No sparkles or fancy finishes here, just good-as-new, single-source 100% post-industrial recycled PETG (also know as CPE or co-polyester) resin extruded into filament and spooled onto cardboard spools to minimize environmental impact and maximize value.

Many filaments are wound onto wasteful plastic spools because it's cheap and easy, but cardboard is sturdy enough for single use, saves shipping weight, and is easily recycled when done!

Proto-pasta filament is first dried, then extruded without moisture using air cooling for exceptional quality.

Minimal waste, no water use, and no additives because less is more when meeting basic needs.

 

 

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and InstagramNeed more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

1kg- Rolo
PETG Back-to-basics Clear 100% Post-industrial Recycled
- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm)
- Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Fácil
- Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

No sparkles or fancy finishes here, just high clarity SK GE300 PETG (also know as CPE or co-polyester) resin extruded into filament and spooled onto cardboard spools to minimize environmental impact and maximize value.

Many filaments are wound onto wasteful plastic spools because it's cheap and easy, but cardboard is sturdy enough for single use, saves shipping weight, and is easily recycled when done!

Protopasta filament is first dried, then extruded without moisture using air cooling for exceptional quality.

Minimal waste, no water use, and no additives because less is more when meeting basic needs.

 

 

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and InstagramNeed more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

1kg- Rolo
PETG Back-to-basics Clear GE300
- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm)
- Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Fácil
- Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

No sparkles or fancy finishes here, just premium Natureworks Ingeo 4043D PLA with high quality white pigment.

Master-batched and extruded in house to be your go-to basic PLA filament for a premium experience.

Spooled onto cardboard spools to minimize environmental impact and maximize value.

Many filaments are wound onto wasteful plastic spools because it's cheap and easy, but cardboard is sturdy enough for single use, saves shipping weight, and is easily recycled when done!

Protopasta filament is first dried, then extruded without moisture using air cooling for exceptional quality.

Minimal waste, no water use, and no additives because less is more when meeting basic needs.

 


 

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and InstagramNeed more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

1kg- Rolo
PLA Back-to-basics Natural
- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm)
- Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil
- Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

No sparkles or fancy finishes here, just premium Natureworks Ingeo 4043D PLA with high quality white pigment.

Master-batched and extruded in house to be your go-to basic PLA filament for a premium experience.

Spooled onto cardboard spools to minimize environmental impact and maximize value.

Many filaments are wound onto wasteful plastic spools because it's cheap and easy, but cardboard is sturdy enough for single use, saves shipping weight, and is easily recycled when done!

Protopasta filament is first dried, then extruded without moisture using air cooling for exceptional quality.

Minimal waste, no water use, and no additives because less is more when meeting basic needs.

 


 

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and InstagramNeed more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

1kg- Rolo
PLA Back-to-basics Black
- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm)
- Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil
- Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

No sparkles or fancy finishes here, just premium Natureworks Ingeo 4043D PLA with high quality white pigment.

Master-batched and extruded in house to be your go-to basic PLA filament for a premium experience.

Spooled onto cardboard spools to minimize environmental impact and maximize value.

Many filaments are wound onto wasteful plastic spools because it's cheap and easy, but cardboard is sturdy enough for single use, saves shipping weight, and is easily recycled when done!

Protopasta filament is first dried, then extruded without moisture using air cooling for exceptional quality.

Minimal waste, no water use, and no additives because less is more when meeting basic needs.

 


 

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and InstagramNeed more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

1kg- Rolo
PLA Back-to-basics White
- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm)
- Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil
- Facilidade de Impressão




Este produto inclui:

Especificações:

Altura: 264,4 mm
Largura: 254 mm
Espessura: ~3,175 mm
Temperatura máxima de trabalho: 120°C
Temperatura máxima recomendada: 110°C
Voltagem: 24V
Corrente: 6.25A
Ímanes: 45SH Ímanes de bloco Neodym (28 pcs), anexados por Loctite HY 4090

Para substituir a(s) peça(s), consultar os nossos manuais de montagem. Certifique-se de que segue o manual para o seu modelo de impressora.

Cansado dos sistemas de tubos bowden e suas desvantagens tais como manutenção complicada, troca de filamento demorada, incompatibilidade de impressão com filamentos flexíveis entre outros?
O Bondtech DDX Direct Drive eXtruder para impressoras 3D creality é um kit de upgrade que substitui o sistema bowden original por uma configuração direct drive.

É um extrusor Dual Drive de alto desempenho baseado no Mini Geared BMG Bondtech.

 

Compatível com os seguintes modelos de impressoras da marca Creality:

  • CR-10S Pro;
  • CR-10S Pro v2;
  • CR-10 Max;

 

 

Compatibilidade de Múltiplos Hotends

Este modelo foi criado para ser compatível com o hotend original de cada modelo de impressoras 3D da marca Creality.

Os utilizadores também podem actualizar o hotend para Copperhead™ ou Mosquito™.

 

Este produto inclui:

  • 1x DDX Extruder
  • 1x Nema17 Pancake stepper motor
  • 1x Thumbscrew Assembly
  • 1x 70cm Stepper motor extension cable
  • 1x 60cm PTFE tube
  • 1x 7cm Capricorn tube
  • 4x Zip-ties
  • 3x M3x12mm screw
  • 2x M3x20mm screw
  • 1x M3x10mm button head screw
  • 1x 10079-42 SLS Fan Shroud
  • 1x 10079-41 SLS Fan Holder
  • 1x 10079-44 SLS Bowden Adapter
  • 1x M3x18 Screw
  • 1x M3x20 Screw
  • 2x M3x8 Screw
  • 2x M3 5mm Square Nut

 

Using a bed probe with DDX

The DDX was designed to allow space for the bed probe to be attached to the x-carriage.

In models where there is no space to attach a bed probe like the BLtouch, to the X-carriage, a mount can printed and attached to the right hand side of the DDX.

 

Bondtech DDX Direct Drive eXtruder

This Direct Drive eXtruder from Bondtech is a high performance, high reliability 1,75mm Dual Drive extruder for Creality 3D printers, based on our very popular BMG.

Bondtech’s unique Dual-Drive technology combined with either the factory hotend or for even better performance the industry leading hotends Copperhead™ or Mosquito™ from SliceEngineering gives you a direct drive extruder with problems free material feeding and enables the use of a wider range of materials.

The housing parts are printed with PA12 (polyamide) for maximum strength and precision using industrial grade SLS technology.

 

Make your 3D printer even better

Bondtech DDX Direct Drive eXtruder for Creality is designed to give the user more options – different materials; higher flow and/or wider nozzles; thinner layers – and achieve a higher print quality.

The DDX is based on the BMG Bondtech Mini Geared extruder featuring our unique Dual-Drive technology. The DDX housing design provides an effective Hot-End cooling.

With the 3:1 gearing ratio, high resolution prints with small nozzles or high flow prints with bigger nozzles can be achieved.

 

When upgrading your Creality with DDX

Know more about the different ways to upgrade your Creality with DDX here:
The 4 Phases of Bondtech DDX for Creality

 

 

 

 

 

 

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