A FormFutura foi fundada em 2012, em Amesterdão, Holanda., de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Tornou-se rapidamente numa marca inconfundível com clientes em todo o mundo.

 

 

Our CarbonFil filament is based upon the unique PETG blend of our HDglass compound and is reinforced with 20% ultra-light and relatively long stringer carbon fibres, which has resulted in an exceptionally stiff carbon-fibre reinforced 3D printer filament. CarbonFil is twice as stiff as HDglass and yet it is even 10% more impact resistant, which is a remarkable feature for carbon-fibre reinforced filament.

 

 

Unique features

  • Reinforced with 20% ultra-lightweight and relatively long carbon fibre stringers
  • Extremely stiff
    • Two times as stiff as HDglass (or even more compared to other PETG-based filaments)
  • Great impact resistance
    • 10% more impact resistant than HDglass (or even more compared to other PETG-based filaments)
  • Very easy to print
    • Nearly warp-free, improved thermal stability, nearly perfect first layer and inter-layer adhesion
    • Good first layer adhesion to a heated glass print bed and many other surfaces
  • Heat deflection temperature of ± 85° C
  • Great dimensional stability

 

 

 

General printing guidelines *

Nozzle size: ≥ 0.4mm Layer height: ≥ 0.2mm Flow rate: ± 100%
Print temp: ± 230 - 265° C Print speed: Low Retraction: Yes ± 6mm
Heat bed: ± 0 - 60° C Fan speed: 50-100% Experience level: Beginner

*) Above displayed settings are meant as guidance to find your optimal print settings. These ranges in settings should work for most printers, but please do feel free to experiment outside these ranges if you think it is suitable for your printer. There are a lot of different type of printers, hot-ends and printer offsets that it is extremely difficult to give an overall one-size-fits-all setting.

 

 

 

Abrasiveness

Please be aware that CarbonFil filaments contain a relatively high concentration of extremely hard carbon fibres, which have an abrasive nature. In general these carbon fibres will accelerate the nozzle-wear of brass nozzles, much faster than unfilled filaments. We recommend to use nozzles from stainless steel or other hardened alloys.

 

 

 

Filament length

ρ: 1.19 g/cc 50 gr coil 0.5 Kg spool 2.3 Kg spool
Ø 1.75mm ± 17.5m ± 175m ± 804m
Ø 2.85mm ± 6.6m ± 66m ± 303m

 

 

 

Nozzle cleaning

When printing with filled/composite filaments it is recommended to clean your nozzle immediately after printing by feeding 15-20cm PLA filament through your nozzle. This will make sure that any potential fillers are flown out of your nozzle. It is even better to use glow in the dark PLA as the extremely hard phosphorous particles are much more likely to scrape out residual waste from your nozzle.

 

 

 

Product export information

HS Code: 39169090 Description: Monofilament Country of origin: the Netherlands

Compliance *

This filament is compliant to below listed directives and regulations.

  • RoHS directive 2011/65/EC
  • REACH directive 1907/2006/EC

*) This declaration of conformity to directives and regulations is prepared according to our present standard of knowledge and may be amended if new cognitions are available and applies only for the above described products.

 

 

 

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

Este  material é altamente abrasivo. Recomendamos a utilização de Nozzles de aço endurecido.

Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

500g- Rolo
PETG CarbonFil Black - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
230º a 265º - Temp. recomendada do Hotend
0º a 60º - Temp. recomendada da Heated bed
Fácil - Facilidade de Impressão

 





A FormFutura foi fundada em 2012, em Amesterdão, Holanda., de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Tornou-se rapidamente numa marca inconfundível com clientes em todo o mundo.

 

 

FormFutura's BVOH - Butenediol Vinyl Alcohol Co-polymer - 3D printer filament is an advanced water-soluble support material for complex multi-extrusion 3D printing. BVOH bonds to nearly all 'build materials' and it dissolves in water at a faster rate than PVA support materials. Its thermal stability is optimized to eliminate any risk of your hot-end clogging up by thermal degradation.

 

 


Key features

  • Good bonding with nearly all 'build materials'
  • Excellent solubility in water
  • Resistant to thermal degradation through optimized melt flow properties
  • Eco-friendly
    • Waste can be disposed of by flushing it (with water) through any regular household drain

 

 

 


Applications

  • Reliable multi-extrusion 3D printing of complex structures that require a water-soluble support material
    • 3D printing geometries with large overhangs or complex hollow structures
  • PVA molds

 

 

 


General printing guidelines *

Nozzle side: ≥ 0.15mm layer height: ≥ 0.1mm Experience level: Expert
Print temp: ± 200 - 230° C * Fan speed: 0 - 30%
Heat bed: ± 65 - 75° C Enclosure needed: No

*) Above displayed settings are meant as guidance to find your optimal print settings. These ranges in settings should work for most printers, but please do feel free to experiment outside these parameters if you think it is suitable for your printer. There are a lot of different type of printers, hot-ends, and printer offset that it is extremely difficult to give an overall one-size-fits-all setting.

*) Do not exceed a printing temperature of 230˚C for a prolonged period of time.

*) Once BVOH has been used or opened from its original vacuum-sealed packaging for a while it is advised to dry the material before using again.     

 

 

 


Filament length

ρ: 1.14 g/cc 50 gr coil 0.3 Kg spool 0.75 Kg spool
Ø 1.75mm ± 18.2m ± 109m ± 274m
Ø 2.85mm ± 6.9m ± 41m ± 103m

 

 

 

General guidelines for 3D printing with support materials like PVA and BVOH

Printing with support materials, in general, isn’t plug and play and does require a fair amount of 3D printing expertise as there isn’t a generic one-size-fits-all setting for multi extrusion 3D printing with PVA and/or BVOH filaments. The optimal 3D printing settings for support PVA and BVOH filaments can even vary between the same models of 3D printers.

One of the most common challenges is to establish a good bond between the PVA and/or BVOH support material and the primary build material. Below parameters are of utmost importance to establish good bonding between the 3D printing materials.

  • Verify the extrusion distance between the printed object and the support material.
    • Typically the default setting in most slicer software is set at an extrusion distance of 0.1 - 0.2mm, which is optimal for break-away support materials. For water-soluble support materials, we recommend turning this setting down to 0.0mm.
  • The displayed printing/nozzle temperature should be accurate.
    • If the temperature deviates up to or over 10°C from the intended printing temperature, this may negatively impact the flow of your support material. How big this deviation is wildly varies depending on the printer you're using.
  • Make sure your printer is properly leveled. Avoid height differences across the multiple nozzles.
    • To verify your nozzles are leveled, we recommend 3D printing a small rod (e.g. 5cm x 1cm with PLA) and switching nozzles every 1 - 2 layers to detect any imperfections in the layers.

 

 

 

Product export information

HS Code: 39169090 Description: Monofilament Country of origin: the Netherlands

 

 

 


Compliance *

This filament is compliant to the directives and regulations listed below:

  • RoHS directive 2011/65/EC
  • REACH directive 1907/2006/EC

*) This declaration of conformity to directives and regulations is prepared according to our present standard of knowledge and may be amended if new cognitions are available and applies only for the above-described products.

 

 

 

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

300g - Rolo
BVOH Natural  - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
200º a 230º - Temp. recomendada do Hotend
65º a 75º - Temp. recomendada da Heated bed
Moderado - Facilidade de Impressão

 

 

A FormFutura foi fundada em 2012, em Amesterdão, Holanda., de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Tornou-se rapidamente numa marca inconfundível com clientes em todo o mundo.

 

 

 

 

FormFutura's BVOH - Butenediol Vinyl Alcohol Co-polymer - 3D printer filament is an advanced water-soluble support material for complex multi-extrusion 3D printing. BVOH bonds to nearly all 'build materials' and it dissolves in water at a faster rate than PVA support materials. Its thermal stability is optimized to eliminate any risk of your hot-end clogging up by thermal degradation.

 

 


Key features

  • Good bonding with nearly all 'build materials'
  • Excellent solubility in water
  • Resistant to thermal degradation through optimized melt flow properties
  • Eco-friendly
    • Waste can be disposed of by flushing it (with water) through any regular household drain

 

 

 


Applications

  • Reliable multi-extrusion 3D printing of complex structures that require a water-soluble support material
    • 3D printing geometries with large overhangs or complex hollow structures
  • PVA molds

 

 

 


General printing guidelines *

Nozzle side: ≥ 0.15mm layer height: ≥ 0.1mm Experience level: Expert
Print temp: ± 200 - 230° C * Fan speed: 0 - 30%
Heat bed: ± 65 - 75° C Enclosure needed: No

*) Above displayed settings are meant as guidance to find your optimal print settings. These ranges in settings should work for most printers, but please do feel free to experiment outside these parameters if you think it is suitable for your printer. There are a lot of different type of printers, hot-ends, and printer offset that it is extremely difficult to give an overall one-size-fits-all setting.

*) Do not exceed a printing temperature of 230˚C for a prolonged period of time.

*) Once BVOH has been used or opened from its original vacuum-sealed packaging for a while it is advised to dry the material before using again.     

 

 

 


Filament length

ρ: 1.14 g/cc 50 gr coil 0.3 Kg spool 0.75 Kg spool
Ø 1.75mm ± 18.2m ± 109m ± 274m
Ø 2.85mm ± 6.9m ± 41m ± 103m

 

 

 

General guidelines for 3D printing with support materials like PVA and BVOH

Printing with support materials, in general, isn’t plug and play and does require a fair amount of 3D printing expertise as there isn’t a generic one-size-fits-all setting for multi extrusion 3D printing with PVA and/or BVOH filaments. The optimal 3D printing settings for support PVA and BVOH filaments can even vary between the same models of 3D printers.

One of the most common challenges is to establish a good bond between the PVA and/or BVOH support material and the primary build material. Below parameters are of utmost importance to establish good bonding between the 3D printing materials.

  • Verify the extrusion distance between the printed object and the support material.
    • Typically the default setting in most slicer software is set at an extrusion distance of 0.1 - 0.2mm, which is optimal for break-away support materials. For water-soluble support materials, we recommend turning this setting down to 0.0mm.
  • The displayed printing/nozzle temperature should be accurate.
    • If the temperature deviates up to or over 10°C from the intended printing temperature, this may negatively impact the flow of your support material. How big this deviation is wildly varies depending on the printer you're using.
  • Make sure your printer is properly leveled. Avoid height differences across the multiple nozzles.
    • To verify your nozzles are leveled, we recommend 3D printing a small rod (e.g. 5cm x 1cm with PLA) and switching nozzles every 1 - 2 layers to detect any imperfections in the layers.

 

 

 

Product export information

HS Code: 39169090 Description: Monofilament Country of origin: the Netherlands

 

 

 


Compliance *

This filament is compliant to the directives and regulations listed below:

  • RoHS directive 2011/65/EC
  • REACH directive 1907/2006/EC

*) This declaration of conformity to directives and regulations is prepared according to our present standard of knowledge and may be amended if new cognitions are available and applies only for the above-described products.

 

 

 

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

750g - Rolo
BVOH Natural  - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
200º a 230º - Temp. recomendada do Hotend
65º a 75º - Temp. recomendada da Heated bed
Moderado - Facilidade de Impressão

 

 

PAJet 160 nylon (poliamida) - engenharia termoplásica

Graças à sua resistência a altas temperaturas, álcool e produtos químicos, Nylon é particularmente útil para aplicações mecânicas e técnicas. É extremamente durável, forte e inquebrável. É facilmente maquinado com ferramentas desenhadas para processamento de metal e também é facilmente pintada, o que o torna ainda mais versátil e funcional.

É incrivelmente flexível - expande-se em 50% antes de partir. No entanto, não é resistente a alcalinos e ácidos concentrados.

 

APLICAÇÃO:

  • Peças mecânicas: guias, engrenagens (rodas de engrenagem)
  • Componentes técnicos: rolamentos de diapositivos, porcas

 

PROPRIEDADES:

  • Alta resistência a altas temperaturas e compostos químicos
  • Alta flexibilidade
  • Resistente à abrasão
  • Altamente resistente ao calor (até 160 °C)

 

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

 

Este material é considerado de difícil aderência à superfície da plataforma de impressão 3D de vidro ou PEI. Para evitar problemas de warpping e de aderência das peças, recomendamos a aplicar potenciador de aderência especial para PA Nylon.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

Normalmente os filamentos Nylon são altamente higroscópicos, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após abertos, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmos. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento. AVISO: O recurso a forno para secagem do filamento invalida a garantia.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

 

 

Documentos para Download:
Technical Data Sheet
Safety Data Sheet
Rohs

 

10m (Amostra) - Rolo
Nylon PAJet 160 Natur - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura
 230º a 240º - Temp. recomendada do Hotend
40º a 120º - Temp. recomendada da Heated bed (mediante aplicação de Magigoo PA)
Difícil - Facilidade de Impressão

 

 

CFJet este material é baseado em PETG e contém 20 % de fibras de carbono, portanto, é caracterizado por maior força e rigidez do que o PETG convencional.

É ideal para componentes mecânicos e tem uma bela superfície mate.

 

 

Filamento PETG para impressão 3D da marca Filament PM, de qualidade premium, com enrolamento perfeito, indicado tanto para utilizadores mais avançados e profissionais como para quem está a começar.
Este é um filamento fabricado na Europa segundo as mais rigorosas normas de qualidade.
A marca Filament PM ficou conhecida por fabricar e fornecer os filamentos para a conceituada marca de impressoras Original Prusa i3 by Josef Prusa.

 

O PETG é o copolímero mais famoso e utilizado no mundo da impressão 3D.
Surgiu no combinar o PET com glicol, melhorando as  propriedades do PET através de um processo de glicosilação .

O PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) nasce em 1941 da mão dos cientistas britânicos Whinfield e Dickson, quem patentearam este polímero para a fabricação de fibras, que substituiriam às fibras de algodão.
Em 1976, este polímero começou a ser usado na fabricação de garrafas para bebidas como bebidas carbonatadas, cerveja e água mineral.
Dado este factor, não é de estranhar que o PET seja o plástico mais utilizado do mundo.

Um dos motivos pelo qual na impressão 3D se utiliza o PETG  é este mais duradouro graças à sua maior resistência ao desgaste e a corrosão a agentes oxidantes, aspectos que estão combinados com uma alta firmeza anti-impactos.

Outras vantagens que o PETG apresenta é o facto de ser o único que não liberta qualquer tipo de gás na impressão 3D, sendo seguro para utilização dentro de espaços comuns, como escritórios.

O PETG como material utilizado na impressão 3D caracteriza-se por ter uma funcionalidade muito similar ao ABS (boa resistência à temperatura, duradouro, resistente) e a facilidade de impressão como o PLA.
Além disso amostra uma excelente adesão entre camadas, pouca deformação durante a impressão, resistência a ambientes com temperaturas baixas durante prolongados intervalos de tempo, resistência química (bases e ácidos), UV, e a ausência de cheiro durante a sua impressão.

A aplicação deste copoliéster na impressão 3D centra-se na produção de peças que precisam certa flexibilidade, boa resistência aos golpes (inclusive a baixas temperaturas), como por exemplo: peças sujeitas a pressão, peças protetoras ou recipientes para alimentos, as quais podem ser totalmente recicláveis.

 

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.
Caso aqueças a Hotbed a 70ºC para o material PETG, consegues eliminar na totalidade todos os problemas de warpping .

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

Este  material é altamente abrasivo. Recomendamos a utilização de Nozzles de aço endurecido.

Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

 

 

Documentos para Download:
Technical Data Sheet
Safety Data Sheet
Rohs

10m (Amostra) - Rolo
Transparent Black  - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura
 220º a 250º - Temp. recomendada do Hotend
70º a 85º - Temp. recomendada da Heated bed (70ºC  mediante aplicação de 3DLAC)
Fácil - Facilidade de Impressão

 

ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

It seemed untouchable, always turning pink, but we finally have a formulation good enough to share! 

Think hot rods and ruby slippers, this red is going to knock your socks off!!!!  Words can't describe... 

 

 

CANDY APPLE RED METALLIC PLA!!! Need I say more?!?!

Created from our highest quality, translucent HTPLA v2, this stuff is red and sparkly!

Candy Apple Red Metallic PLA prints with the ease of standard PLA with standard hardware and temperatures, but make fun, mesmerizing prints that stand out. Celebrate good times by 3d printing metallic red PLA ornaments, toys, and treasures. If you want to make a print more fun, just add glitter. Glitter Flake Red PLA has little risk of clogging or wearing your nozzle, and it won't make a glittery mess, but beware, printing with metallic glitter PLA is sure to be addictive! Glitter particles are relatively small but have some orientation effects, giving top/bottom surfaces more shine than sidewall, so have some fun playing with orientation to see how the result changes!

HEAT TREATING

Like our other HTPLAs, Glitter Flake Metallic Red PLA filament can be "Heat Treated" to increase crystallinity for "Higher Temperature" resistance compared to amorphous PLA, ABS, and co-polyesters like PETG! Glitter Flake HTPLA prints translucent, but turns opaque when heat treated (or crystallized). With a more crystalline structure, heat treated HTPLA parts can hold form to near melting, though temperatures where the material is practically useful vary greatly depending on geometry and load conditions!

For this improved performance, your prints should be baked in an oven until you see a change from translucent pink to opaque pink with reduced gloss. This visual change indicates the improved performance! We've seen the change take place in 5-10 minutes on thin walled parts but can take an hour or more. We've had good luck in a quality, at home convection oven at 110C (225F). Parts will get very "floppy" before becoming more firm, so please leave supports on your parts or support them and bake them on a flat, non-radiating surface (like glass, ceramic, or composite).

PRINTING

In our experience, good results were achieved using standard PLA parameters ranging from 195-225C nozzle with standard build surface preparation (blue tape, glue stick, or BuildTak). No heated bed required but up to 60C is okay. Beware, if the bed temperature is too high, your part base could actually heat treat while printing, increasing warping and decreasing adhesion. Some shrinkage will occur in the heat treating process, so dimension critical parts may need to be scaled appropriately (as much as 2.5% in our experience).

  • No abrasive fillers so expect normal wear with standard nozzles.
  • Available in 1.75 & 2.85 (3) mm diameter on a 50g diameter recyclable cardboard spool
  • Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more!

 

High Temperature PLA ( HTPLA )

Looking for increased heat resistance without the need to switch to ABS? Protopasta High Temperature PLA offers heat deflection of up to 88° C (190.4° F) compared to standard PLA of 45-54° C (113-135° F). This makes it a great choice for moving parts (gears, RepRap pieces, etc) or prints that would face moderately high temperatures. Our High Temperature PLA is white, but can be painted after annealing.

What is it made out of?
Protopasta High Temperature PLA is made from a mineral filled, impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance, so post-print annealing is essential to activate the heat deflection qualities of this material.How do I anneal my print?
You can anneal your finished prints several ways, the two easiest ways are by using hot (but not boiling) water or by placing it in a low temperature oven (newer oven models only). Follow these steps:
  • Water Method: Find a pot large enough to hold your print and fill it halfway with water. On medium heat, heat the water until it reaches 95-115 C (200-240 F) (a cooking thermometer works great for this), turn the heat to low and submerge the print in the warm water bath for 6-10 minutes. Placing a lid on your pot will help the water maintain temperature.
  • Oven Method: Many newer ovens often have low temperature settings (sometimes called "keep warm" or "bread proof"). Set your oven to 95-115 C (200-240 F), place your finished print on a tray, and set it in the oven for 6-10 minutes.
  • SUPPORT YOUR PRINT! Because the annealing process will soften the plastic somewhat, it's best to support your print during this process.
What temperature should I print it at?
Because 3D printers vary so much from model to model, and because many RepRap printers combine parts from several manufactures, we can't provide the optimum temperature for your machine. Generally, our customers find it prints just like standard PLA on their machines (at around 210° C), though others find success running it a bit hotter (around 220° C).Do I need a heated bed? No, High Temp PLA does not require a heated bed or an enclosure.

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and Instagram. Need more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

50g- Rolo
HTPLA Candy Apple Metallic Red HTPLA ( Community Inspired )- Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil - Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

Any good story of the sea comes with a bit of embellishment, but this material needs not embellishing.

Our 2nd material, following Galactic Empire Metallic Purple, designed in collaboration with local artist, Rose "Maz" Moore of the creative duo "Maz and Attero" (etsy.com/shop/mazandattero or mazandattero.xyz) and, yet again named by the community, Mermaid's Tale Metallic Teal HTPLA  captures the shimmer and shine of the sea.

It reminds me of scales on a fish, the sun-lit ocean waves, and hand airbrushed fishing lures my neighbor made growing up.

Equaled only by Cupid's Crush Metallic Pink in level of sparkle, this Metallic Teal is spectacular!

 

 

Get lured in with the tale of a filament fit for a Mermaid's tail!

Print with ease

Print with the ease of standard PLA with standard hardware and temperatures, but make fun, mesmerizing prints that stand out. Celebrate good times by printing toys, treasures, and keepsakes. If you want to make a print more fun, just add some metallic pop! Our metallic finish contains no actual metal and has little risk of clogging or wearing your nozzle, and it won't make a glitter mess, but beware the printing is sure to be addictive!  Metallic particles are relatively small but have some orientation effects, giving top/bottom surfaces more shine than sidewall, so have some fun playing with orientation to see how the result changes! We recommend 0.2 mm layers for the best result.

Heat treating

Like our other HTPLAs, Metallic HTPLA can be "Heat Treated"  to increase crystallinity for "Higher Temperature" resistance compared to amorphous PLA, ABS, and co-polyesters like PETG!  Glittler Flake HTPLA prints translucence, but turns opaque when heat treated (or crystallized).  With a more crystalline structure, heat treated HTPLA parts can hold form to near melting, though temperatures where the material is practically useful vary greatly depending on geometry and load conditions!

Improved performance

For this improved the performance, your prints should be baked in an oven until you see a change from translucent to opaque with reduced gloss. This visual change indicating the improved performance! We've  seen the change take place in 5-10 minutes on thin walled parts but can take an hour or more. We've had good luck in a quality, at home convection oven at 110C (225F).  Parts will get very "floppy" before becoming more firm, so please leave supports on your parts or support them and bake them on a flat, non-radiating surface (like glass, ceramic, or composite).

  • Available in 1.75 & 2.85 (3) mm diameter on a 50g diameter recyclable cardboard spool
  • Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more!

No abrasive fillers so expect normal wear with standard nozzles.

In our experience, good results were achieved using standard PLA parameters ranging from 195-225C nozzle with standard build surface preparation (blue tape, glue stick, or BuildTak). No heated bed required but up to 60C is okay.  Beware, if the bed temperature is too high, your part base could actually heat treat while printing, increasing warping and decreasing adhesion.  Some shrinkage will occur in the heat treating process, so dimension critical parts may need to be scaled appropriately (as much as 2.5% in our experience).

 

High Temperature PLA ( HTPLA )

Looking for increased heat resistance without the need to switch to ABS? Protopasta High Temperature PLA offers heat deflection of up to 88° C (190.4° F) compared to standard PLA of 45-54° C (113-135° F). This makes it a great choice for moving parts (gears, RepRap pieces, etc) or prints that would face moderately high temperatures. Our High Temperature PLA is white, but can be painted after annealing.

What is it made out of?
Protopasta High Temperature PLA is made from a mineral filled, impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance, so post-print annealing is essential to activate the heat deflection qualities of this material.How do I anneal my print?
You can anneal your finished prints several ways, the two easiest ways are by using hot (but not boiling) water or by placing it in a low temperature oven (newer oven models only). Follow these steps:
  • Water Method: Find a pot large enough to hold your print and fill it halfway with water. On medium heat, heat the water until it reaches 95-115 C (200-240 F) (a cooking thermometer works great for this), turn the heat to low and submerge the print in the warm water bath for 6-10 minutes. Placing a lid on your pot will help the water maintain temperature.
  • Oven Method: Many newer ovens often have low temperature settings (sometimes called "keep warm" or "bread proof"). Set your oven to 95-115 C (200-240 F), place your finished print on a tray, and set it in the oven for 6-10 minutes.
  • SUPPORT YOUR PRINT! Because the annealing process will soften the plastic somewhat, it's best to support your print during this process.
What temperature should I print it at?
Because 3D printers vary so much from model to model, and because many RepRap printers combine parts from several manufactures, we can't provide the optimum temperature for your machine. Generally, our customers find it prints just like standard PLA on their machines (at around 210° C), though others find success running it a bit hotter (around 220° C).Do I need a heated bed? No, High Temp PLA does not require a heated bed or an enclosure.

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and Instagram. Need more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

50g- Rolo
HTPLA Mermaid's Tale Metallic Teal HTPLA ( Community Inspired ) - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil - Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

Designed in collaboration with local artist, Rose "Maz" Moore of the creative duo "Maz and Attero" (etsy.com/shop/mazandattero or mazandattero.xyz) and named by the community, Galactic Empire Metallic Purple HTPLA  has presence and prestige!

Purple is the color of royalty after all.

So park your star destroyer and roll out the red carpet because this rich, dark purple is complimented with some big, silver fleck for just the right metallic pop!!!

 

 

A purple to rule the galaxy from the Kings of Filament!

Print with the ease of standard PLA with standard hardware and temperatures, but make fun, mesmerizing prints that stand out.  Celebrate good times by printing toys, treasures, and keepsakes.  If you want to make a print more fun, just add some metallic pop!  Our metallic finish contains no actual metal and has little risk of clogging or wearing your nozzle, and it won't make a glitter mess, but beware the printing is sure to be addictive!  Metallic particles are relatively small but have some orientation effects, giving top/bottom surfaces more shine than sidewall, so have some fun playing with orientation to see how the result changes!  We recommend 0.2 mm layers for the best result.
Like our other HTPLAs, Metallic HTPLA can be "Heat Treated"  to increase crystallinity for "Higher Temperature" resistance compared to amorphous PLA, ABS, and co-polyesters like PETG!  Glitter Flake HTPLA prints translucence, but turns opaque when heat treated (or crystallized).  With a more crystalline structure, heat treated HTPLA parts can hold form to near melting, though temperatures where the material is practically useful vary greatly depending on geometry and load conditions!
For this improved performance, your prints should be baked in an oven until you see a change from translucent to opaque with reduced gloss.  This visual change indicating the improved performance! We've  seen the change take place in 5-10 minutes on thin walled parts but can take an hour or more.  We've had good luck in a quality, at home convection oven at 110C (225F).  Parts will get very "floppy" before becoming more firm, so please leave supports on your parts or support them and bake them on a flat, non-radiating surface (like glass, ceramic, or composite).
  • Available in 1.75 & 2.85 (3) mm diameter on a 50g diameter recyclable cardboard spool
  • Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more!

No abrasive fillers so expect normal wear with standard nozzles.

In our experience, good results were achieved using standard PLA parameters ranging from 195-225C nozzle with standard build surface preparation (blue tape, glue stick, or BuildTak). No heated bed required but up to 60C is okay.  Beware, if the bed temperature is too high, your part base could actually heat treat while printing, increasing warping and decreasing adhesion.  Some shrinkage will occur in the heat treating process, so dimension critical parts may need to be scaled appropriately (as much as 2.5% in our experience).

Print

HTPLA prints well at 205-225 C, however it's important to match temp to your hardware & volume flow rate. With a typical hotend, you should be able to print at 205 C without jamming at a low flow rate. In machines with hardware that tends towards jamming, consider this video with Joel Telling.

Lower volume flows require lower temps, while higher volume flows require higher temps. In the previously-mentioned video, one way to overcome jamming is to set your temp to a higher-than-typical 240 C. This should then be matched with a high flow rate for a quality printing result.

For direct drives with a short distance between drive gears & nozzle, volume flows can approach 7-8 cubic mm/s or more if printing hot to overcome jamming. For bowden tubes where the distance between drive gear & nozzle are great or less powerful hotends, as little as 2 and as much as 4 cubic mm/s may be the limit. Beware of unintended speed changes from faster infills & slowing down for outlines or short layers. Consider our Ultimaker-specific blog for more on this topic.

A constant speed throughout the part is ideal from an extrusion perspective. Knowing your extrusion width, layer thickness & speed you can calculate your volume flow rate with the calculator like found in the previously-mentioned Ultimaker blog. Alternatively, if you know your volume flow rate limit, extrusion width & layer thickness, you can calculate your speed limit.

Heat Treat

PLA & HTPLA are amorphous in structure as printed (no heat treating) & though both are adequate performers in an office environment, they have poor temperature stability, loosing significant stiffness at temps nearing 60 C. Different than standard PLA, HTPLA is designed to survive heat treating for higher temp stability in a no/minimal load condition to near onset of melting (155 C). That's an astonishing improvement in thermal stability compared to standard PLA after a quick bake in the oven after printing.

In as little as 5-10 minutes for small, thin parts, HTPLA quickly crystallizes in an oven at 95-115 C (200-240 F) to become more stiff & hold form above glass transition (60 C). Depending on part geometry, setup & technique, parts can deform and shrink. Best results are with flat and/or supported parts with 100% infill. In this instance we experienced x/y shrinkage of about 2% & growth of about 1% in z.

Be sure to avoid hot spots (non-radiating surfaces & no glowing coils) in the oven used for baking & experiment before baking a prized part. Un-printed filament works great for experimentation & translucent makes the transformation most visible! Heat treating is an art, but the resulting improved thermal performance, if needed, is well-worth exploring. You'll be shocked by the improved thermal stability of your HTPLA parts!!!

 

High Temperature PLA ( HTPLA )

Looking for increased heat resistance without the need to switch to ABS? Protopasta High Temperature PLA offers heat deflection of up to 88° C (190.4° F) compared to standard PLA of 45-54° C (113-135° F). This makes it a great choice for moving parts (gears, RepRap pieces, etc) or prints that would face moderately high temperatures. Our High Temperature PLA is white, but can be painted after annealing.

What is it made out of?
Protopasta High Temperature PLA is made from a mineral filled, impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance, so post-print annealing is essential to activate the heat deflection qualities of this material.How do I anneal my print?
You can anneal your finished prints several ways, the two easiest ways are by using hot (but not boiling) water or by placing it in a low temperature oven (newer oven models only). Follow these steps:
  • Water Method: Find a pot large enough to hold your print and fill it halfway with water. On medium heat, heat the water until it reaches 95-115 C (200-240 F) (a cooking thermometer works great for this), turn the heat to low and submerge the print in the warm water bath for 6-10 minutes. Placing a lid on your pot will help the water maintain temperature.
  • Oven Method: Many newer ovens often have low temperature settings (sometimes called "keep warm" or "bread proof"). Set your oven to 95-115 C (200-240 F), place your finished print on a tray, and set it in the oven for 6-10 minutes.
  • SUPPORT YOUR PRINT! Because the annealing process will soften the plastic somewhat, it's best to support your print during this process.
What temperature should I print it at?
Because 3D printers vary so much from model to model, and because many RepRap printers combine parts from several manufactures, we can't provide the optimum temperature for your machine. Generally, our customers find it prints just like standard PLA on their machines (at around 210° C), though others find success running it a bit hotter (around 220° C).Do I need a heated bed? No, High Temp PLA does not require a heated bed or an enclosure.

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and Instagram. Need more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

50g- Rolo
HTPLA Galactic Empire Metallic Purple HTPLA ( Community Inspired ) - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil - Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

Designed by Protopasta Filament-making Workshop attendee Ben Nickles and voted "favorite " by the attendees, I introduce to you Blue Wonder Glitter Flake HTPLA .

On July 21st, our workshop attendees got first access to our new gold and multi-color glitter flake concentrate during our first ever filament-making workshop!

Ben seized the day in designing this one-of-a-kind metallic blue PLA filament and everyone loved it so much that we agreed to release it, commemorating the experience.

Other than being an original creation, you might wonder how this blue is different than others? Well, it's translucent and has big multi-color flecks!

 

 

 

Wonder what happens in a filament-making workshop? This!

Print with the ease of standard PLA with standard hardware and temperatures, but make fun, mesmerizing prints that stand out. Celebrate good times by printing toys, treasures, and keepsakes.  If you want to make a print more fun, just add some metallic pop!  Our metallic finish contains no actual metal and has little risk of clogging or wearing your nozzle, and it won't make a glitter mess, but beware the printing is sure to be addictive!  Metallic particles are relatively small but have some orientation effects, giving top/bottom surfaces more shine than sidewall, so have some fun playing with orientation to see how the result changes!  We recommend 0.2 mm layers for the best result.
Like our other HTPLAs, Metallic HTPLA can be "Heat Treated"  to increase crystallinity for "Higher Temperature" resistance compared to amorphous PLA, ABS, and co-polyesters like PETG!  Glittler Flake HTPLA prints translucence, but turns opaque when heat treated (or crystallized).  With a more crystalline structure, heat treated HTPLA parts can hold form to near melting, though temperatures where the material is practically useful vary greatly depending on geometry and load conditions!

For this improved the performance, your prints should be baked in an oven until you see a change from translucent to opaque with reduced gloss.  This visual change indicating the improved performance! We've  seen the change take place in 5-10 minutes on thin walled parts but can take an hour or more.  We've had good luck in a quality, at home convection oven at 110C (225F).  Parts will get very "floppy" before becoming more firm, so please leave supports on your parts or support them and bake them on a flat, non-radiating surface (like glass, ceramic, or composite).

  • Available in 1.75 & 2.85 (3) mm diameter on a 50g diameter recyclable cardboard spool
  • Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more!

No abrasive fillers so expect normal wear with standard nozzles.

In our experience, good results were achieved using standard PLA parameters ranging from 195-225C nozzle with standard build surface preparation (blue tape, glue stick, or BuildTak). No heated bed required but up to 60C is okay.  Beware, if the bed temperature is too high, your part base could actually heat treat while printing, increasing warping and decreasing adhesion.  Some shrinkage will occur in the heat treating process, so dimension critical parts may need to be scaled appropriately (as much as 2.5% in our experience).

 

High Temperature PLA ( HTPLA )

Looking for increased heat resistance without the need to switch to ABS? Protopasta High Temperature PLA offers heat deflection of up to 88° C (190.4° F) compared to standard PLA of 45-54° C (113-135° F). This makes it a great choice for moving parts (gears, RepRap pieces, etc) or prints that would face moderately high temperatures. Our High Temperature PLA is white, but can be painted after annealing.

What is it made out of?
Protopasta High Temperature PLA is made from a mineral filled, impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance, so post-print annealing is essential to activate the heat deflection qualities of this material.How do I anneal my print?
You can anneal your finished prints several ways, the two easiest ways are by using hot (but not boiling) water or by placing it in a low temperature oven (newer oven models only). Follow these steps:
  • Water Method: Find a pot large enough to hold your print and fill it halfway with water. On medium heat, heat the water until it reaches 95-115 C (200-240 F) (a cooking thermometer works great for this), turn the heat to low and submerge the print in the warm water bath for 6-10 minutes. Placing a lid on your pot will help the water maintain temperature.
  • Oven Method: Many newer ovens often have low temperature settings (sometimes called "keep warm" or "bread proof"). Set your oven to 95-115 C (200-240 F), place your finished print on a tray, and set it in the oven for 6-10 minutes.
  • SUPPORT YOUR PRINT! Because the annealing process will soften the plastic somewhat, it's best to support your print during this process.
What temperature should I print it at?
Because 3D printers vary so much from model to model, and because many RepRap printers combine parts from several manufactures, we can't provide the optimum temperature for your machine. Generally, our customers find it prints just like standard PLA on their machines (at around 210° C), though others find success running it a bit hotter (around 220° C).Do I need a heated bed? No, High Temp PLA does not require a heated bed or an enclosure.

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and Instagram. Need more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

50g- Rolo
HTPLA Wonder Blue HTPLA with Multi-color Glitter ( Community Inspired ) - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil - Facilidade de Impressão




ProtoPasta é uma empresa situada nos Estados Unidos da América, de produção de filamentos para impressão 3D de alta qualidade.
Caracterizada pelos rolos feitos em cartão, esta marca é mundialmente famosa  por ser especializada em materiais como PLA e ABS modificados com outros materiais, como o PLA Magnético; o PLA Condutivo; PLA de fibra de carbono; HTPLA de cobre, latão ou bronze; ou o ABS-PC.


 

Special thanks to Thomas Sanladerer (toms3d.org) for visiting Protoplant and participating in the design and manufacture of his very own Protopasta color, Tangerine Orange Metallic (TOM) Gold HTPLA .

Inspired by wild, dynamic colors like those made popular by Lotus Cars, this color dynamically shifts in the light from gold to orange.

We hope sharing the process of making and the resulting one-of-a-kind product inspires you to print beautiful, cherished things!

 

 

An exotic, automotive-inspired filament designed together with TOM!

Print with the ease of standard PLA with standard hardware and temperatures, but make fun, mesmerizing prints that stand out.  Celebrate good times by printing toys, treasures, and keepsakes.  If you want to make a print more fun, just add some metallic pop!  Our metallic finish contains no actual metal and has little risk of clogging or wearing your nozzle, and it won't make a glitter mess, but beware the printing is sure to be addictive!  Metallic particles are relatively small but have some orientation effects, giving top/bottom surfaces more shine than sidewall, so have some fun playing with orientation to see how the result changes!  We recommend 0.2 mm layers for the best result.
Like our other HTPLAs, Metallic HTPLA can be "Heat Treated"  to increase crystallinity for "Higher Temperature" resistance compared to amorphous PLA, ABS, and co-polyesters like PETG!  Glittler Flake HTPLA prints translucence, but turns opaque when heat treated (or crystallized).  With a more crystalline structure, heat treated HTPLA parts can hold form to near melting, though temperatures where the material is practically useful vary greatly depending on geometry and load conditions!

For this improved the performance, your prints should be baked in an oven until you see a change from translucent to opaque with reduced gloss.  This visual change indicating the improved performance! We've  seen the change take place in 5-10 minutes on thin walled parts but can take an hour or more.  We've had good luck in a quality, at home convection oven at 110C (225F).  Parts will get very "floppy" before becoming more firm, so please leave supports on your parts or support them and bake them on a flat, non-radiating surface (like glass, ceramic, or composite).

  • Available in 1.75 & 2.85 (3) mm diameter on a 50g diameter recyclable cardboard spool
  • Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more!

No abrasive fillers so expect normal wear with standard nozzles.

In our experience, good results were achieved using standard PLA parameters ranging from 195-225C nozzle with standard build surface preparation (blue tape, glue stick, or BuildTak). No heated bed required but up to 60C is okay.  Beware, if the bed temperature is too high, your part base could actually heat treat while printing, increasing warping and decreasing adhesion.  Some shrinkage will occur in the heat treating process, so dimension critical parts may need to be scaled appropriately (as much as 2.5% in our experience).

Print

HTPLA prints well at 205-225 C, however it's important to match temp to your hardware & volume flow rate. With a typical hotend, you should be able to print at 205 C without jamming at a low flow rate. In machines with hardware that tends towards jamming, consider this video with Joel Telling.

Lower volume flows require lower temps, while higher volume flows require higher temps. In the previously-mentioned video, one way to overcome jamming is to set your temp to a higher-than-typical 240 C. This should then be matched with a high flow rate for a quality printing result.

For direct drives with a short distance between drive gears & nozzle, volume flows can approach 7-8 cubic mm/s or more if printing hot to overcome jamming. For bowden tubes where the distance between drive gear & nozzle are great or less powerful hotends, as little as 2 and as much as 4 cubic mm/s may be the limit. Beware of unintended speed changes from faster infills & slowing down for outlines or short layers. Consider our Ultimaker-specific blog for more on this topic.

A constant speed throughout the part is ideal from an extrusion perspective. Knowing your extrusion width, layer thickness & speed you can calculate your volume flow rate with the calculator like found in the previously-mentioned Ultimaker blog. Alternatively, if you know your volume flow rate limit, extrusion width & layer thickness, you can calculate your speed limit.

Heat Treat

PLA & HTPLA are amorphous in structure as printed (no heat treating) & though both are adequate performers in an office environment, they have poor temperature stability, loosing significant stiffness at temps nearing 60 C. Different than standard PLA, HTPLA is designed to survive heat treating for higher temp stability in a no/minimal load condition to near onset of melting (155 C). That's an astonishing improvement in thermal stability compared to standard PLA after a quick bake in the oven after printing.

In as little as 5-10 minutes for small, thin parts, HTPLA quickly crystallizes in an oven at 95-115 C (200-240 F) to become more stiff & hold form above glass transition (60 C). Depending on part geometry, setup & technique, parts can deform and shrink. Best results are with flat and/or supported parts with 100% infill. In this instance we experienced x/y shrinkage of about 2% & growth of about 1% in z.

Be sure to avoid hot spots (non-radiating surfaces & no glowing coils) in the oven used for baking & experiment before baking a prized part. Un-printed filament works great for experimentation & translucent makes the transformation most visible! Heat treating is an art, but the resulting improved thermal performance, if needed, is well-worth exploring. You'll be shocked by the improved thermal stability of your HTPLA parts!!!

 

High Temperature PLA ( HTPLA )

Looking for increased heat resistance without the need to switch to ABS? Protopasta High Temperature PLA offers heat deflection of up to 88° C (190.4° F) compared to standard PLA of 45-54° C (113-135° F). This makes it a great choice for moving parts (gears, RepRap pieces, etc) or prints that would face moderately high temperatures. Our High Temperature PLA is white, but can be painted after annealing.

What is it made out of?
Protopasta High Temperature PLA is made from a mineral filled, impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance, so post-print annealing is essential to activate the heat deflection qualities of this material.How do I anneal my print?
You can anneal your finished prints several ways, the two easiest ways are by using hot (but not boiling) water or by placing it in a low temperature oven (newer oven models only). Follow these steps:
  • Water Method: Find a pot large enough to hold your print and fill it halfway with water. On medium heat, heat the water until it reaches 95-115 C (200-240 F) (a cooking thermometer works great for this), turn the heat to low and submerge the print in the warm water bath for 6-10 minutes. Placing a lid on your pot will help the water maintain temperature.
  • Oven Method: Many newer ovens often have low temperature settings (sometimes called "keep warm" or "bread proof"). Set your oven to 95-115 C (200-240 F), place your finished print on a tray, and set it in the oven for 6-10 minutes.
  • SUPPORT YOUR PRINT! Because the annealing process will soften the plastic somewhat, it's best to support your print during this process.
What temperature should I print it at?
Because 3D printers vary so much from model to model, and because many RepRap printers combine parts from several manufactures, we can't provide the optimum temperature for your machine. Generally, our customers find it prints just like standard PLA on their machines (at around 210° C), though others find success running it a bit hotter (around 220° C).Do I need a heated bed? No, High Temp PLA does not require a heated bed or an enclosure.

Getting Started with Proto-pasta PLAs including HTPLA

We've created this page to bring you a premium PLA and HTPLA printing experience that rivals our premium material. Follow below to improve your 3D printing experience. In other words, here's your shortcut to awesomeness with pasta. If at the end of this document you have questions or need assistance, please contact us at [email protected].

Filament Handling

Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post.

And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Also, avoid sharp bends and excessive force when loading filament into your printer.

Print settings

At Proto-pasta, we make high quality filament. We aspire to make exceptional results easy, but a positive result is very much dependent on your hardware, set-up, adjustments, and process parameters. Matching hardware with process and material for a positive experience is not always straight-forward, but you can start by pairing the following settings with your printer for a good starting point, then tune or troubleshoot as required.

Example settings for typical printer

  • Nozzle size = 0.4 mm (Standard to most printers & balances detail with productivity.)
  • Extrusion width = 0.45 mm (Typically larger than nozzle size. If using a larger nozzle diameter, be sure to set the extrusion width larger than that nozzle diameter.)
  • Layer thickness = 0.15 mm (For a balance of speed, quality & reliability.)
  • Speed(s) = 15-45 mm/s (Respecting mechanical and volume flow limits. Stay within the recommended speed range but apply slower speeds to the walls and faster speeds to the infill.)
  • Volume flow rate(s) = 1-3 cu mm/s (The result of above speed range, width, and layer thickness. Respect hardware and geometry limitations.)
  • Typical temperature = 215 C +/- 10 C (Matching material, hardware, and volume flow rate.)

Volume flow rate together with temperature dictates how melted the material is. This is hardware & condition dependent based on hot end, nozzle & extruder type, material & manufacturer as well as layer fan type, position & settings. Extrusion width, layer thickness & speed changes affect volume flow which may change required/desired temperature.

Additional settings of note

  • “Grid” infill type at 20-30% - “connect infill lines” unchecked (off).
  • Minimum 3 shells & 4 top/bottom layers for good surface quality.
  • Layer fan set to cool enough for build rate, but not so aggressive as to fail process by over-cooling nozzle and heater block.

Validation and fine-tuning

Post your prints & tag us @Proto_pasta on Twitter and Instagram. Need more help? Consider typical pitfalls and fixes below.

Typical pitfalls

  • Exceeding hardware capabilities.
  • Mismatch of flow rate and temperature.
  • Excessive nozzle cooling from layer fan yielding lower heater block and/or nozzle temperatures than set point.
  • Hardware shortcomings such as MK3 heat break, poor nozzle diameter, or other hangups.
  • Poor assembly or adjustment of components.
  • Excessive retraction distance or number of retractions.
  • Inaccurate flow with missing cross-sections or wall thickness not matching extrusion width software setting.

Typical Fixes

  • Heat break replacement with OEM, straight-through design and defect-free, smooth bore.
  • Proper assembly of components without plastic oozing gaps & with thermal grease.
  • Lightly oiling filament, but careful, a little goes a long way.
  • Reducing layer fan speed and/or isolating from heater block and nozzle.
  • Installing heater block sock to isolate heater block & nozzle from layer fan.
  • Increasing temperature to flow past internal hang-ups.
  • Reduce speed and/or choose a single speed for a single volume flow
  • Consider drive gear tension adjustment, bowden tube coupling/replacement, and spool mounting

We visited Joel and ended up with a helpful video on the subject:

 

Para uma correcta manutenção da sua impressora 3D, recomendamos sempre que trocar de material de filamento 3D,  a efectuar uma purga com filamento especial de limpeza.
Desta forma garante que não ficam vestígios de material nas paredes do nozzle, evitando o acumular de crosta que é criado sempre que efectua trocas de material.
Com este produto evita problema como "clogs" e "jams" e fará com que o seu nozzle mantenha-se sempre limpo, durando muito mais tempo.
Poderá encontrar a partir de 1.49€  no seguinte LINK

 

 

3D lac comprar em Portugal

Para obter maior aderência à superfície da sua  impressora 3D recomendamos a aplicar 3DLAC  na base da plataforma.

Poderá encontrar no seguinte LINK

 

 

Este material é altamente higroscópico, absorvendo rapidamente a humidade do ar passados poucos minutos após aberto, impossibilitando desta forma a correcta impressão 3D do mesmo. O resultado das impressões 3D de materiais com humidade tendem a ser frágeis e de acabamento irregular ou em certos casos, torna-se simplesmente impossíveis de imprimir.
Deverá de usar soluções de caixas fechadas com dessecante como sílica ou caixas próprias secadoras de filamento.
Poderá encontrar  no seguinte LINK

 

 

Download:
Technical and Safety Data Sheet

 

50g- Rolo
HTPLA Tangerine Orange Metallic Gold HTPLA ( Community Inspired ) - Cor
1.75mm (+-0.05mm) - Espessura / Tolerância de diâmetro
Muito Fácil - Facilidade de Impressão



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